February - 2008
Feb. 29: Varanasi, India
Betsy, how I wish you were here -I've found Bead Nirvana. Shanu had mentioned yesterday that he knew of a place that did handmade glass beads. Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine that they'd have what they had - bins and bins of beads, all sizes, shapes, and colors, opaques, semi-opaques, transparents, metal, stone, ceramic, kashmiri, furnace, wire wrapped, silver foil, gold foil, chevron, fancies, etc. I'm not a bead store, nor do I aspire to be a bead store, so I put together an order of earrings, bracelets, and necklaces, using their beads and their labor. The order is supposed to be ready in about 3 weeks. I'm confident that I can trust them to send it, as Shub's family has known them for over 20 years.
The collective taxis in greater Badohi are jeeps, as these can take the pounding metted out by the rugged roads. I saw 2 jeeps today, with gaily wrapped bundles on top, sparkly cloth and shiny tinsel fringe. The first time that I'd seen these, I asked Shanu if it was something to do with weddings. It's at the other end of the cycle of life, these were bodies going down to the burning ghats for cremation along side the Ganges. Last night's wedding party at the hotel was still going strong at 12 when I went to sleep and at 5 a.m.some band cranked up again, but only for about 15 minutes - 'tis the season.
I'm off to Delhi late this afternoon, Vini and the boys did the impossible and found me a room on very short notice. I owe them, big time, this merits at least a nice box of sweets.
Feb. 28: Varanasi, India
Aarrggh, the jinx of writing about food yesterday. After a decent breakfast, we went out to Mizzapur to look at dhurries, and had tea and cashews for lunch, dinner was popcorn, peanuts and instant Nescafe, the hotel's restaurant was closed by the time I got back, and there's nothing else in the Cantonment area.
Normally the Cantonment is really peaceful but today is an auspicious marriage day, so I walked home in the midst of a Hindu wedding procession with marching brass band, portable lit neon tubes carried on top of people's heads, fireworks, and the bridegroom mounted on a white horse. There's another wedding going on at the hotel now as I write this, big drum section, makes me want to go out and dance. Or scarf up left-over food from the tables, I'm that hungry. When I worked at the ski resorts in Switzerland, the Scandinavian kids skiing on the cheap used to swoop down on the left-over, half-eaten food, like scavenging magpies. It grossed the Swiss out, so I best not test the Indians either. I bet if I clean out my purse I'll scrounge up at least a few raisins from the bottom.
Feb. 27: Varanasi, India
My Grandmother Perry (AKA G'ma P, pronounced Gee-ma pea) wrote letters almost exclusively about what she'd had to eat. When she'd send me money for my birthday, my thank you note back would have a detailed description of the restaurant meal that I'd bought with birthday money - I thought that she'd enjoy it vicariously.
So forgive my tendencies to write about road meals, I'm trying to curb that. However, last night's feast certainly deserves mention. The dinner's honoree, Shiv Kumar Sharma, India's leading Santoor master, was well feted with a banquet at Varanasi's top hotel, the Taj Ganges. Aloo dum banarasi, dal tadka, tandoori roti, khichdi, paneer masala - a plethora of wheat free and meat free dishes, hot, spicy, savory, yum yum yum. As the only westerner in attendence, some of the people were concerend that I wouldn't like the food - HA - stand back, it was delicious, everything that I ate, 2nds included. Meals are a tad pricey at my hotel, so what a treat to be able to sample such a variety, and service was impeccable.
Feb. 26: Varanasi, India
Usually when I arrive to Varanasi, it's straight from the U.S., at least straight via Istanbul and Delhi. What I mean to say is that usually I just jump into the thick of rug buying while half-delirious with jet lag. Coming from Kathmandu has been a pleasure, there's only a 15 minute difference in time zones. Yes, India is 30 minutes off of GMT (plus however many time zones) and Nepal, not to be outdone, is 15 minutes off.
Shub, Shanu and I got an early start and at 7:30 p.m., I'm just getting back to the hotel. Badohi is the biggest rug producing area in India, but it's also farm land and is very spread out. The roads are not high speed highways, but it's most pleasant to be chauffered around by Shanu, able to watch the scenary, which is much greener than Rajastan. Having cut my eye teeth on reading Rudyard Kipling and Somerset Maugham, I still get a thrill out of seeing the jackfruit trees, which line the roads, and stacks of cow dung drying for cooking fires. I also saw an elephant lumbering down the road with a load of wool on his back.
Carpet buying buying is progressing, albeit slowly. Except for Shub's beautiful rugs, I'm slowly filling in my wishlist. Shub said that his rugs are all spoken for, for the next 6 months, so I've left an order with him for next year.
It's going to be a late evening for me, I'm invited to a dinner for a Santoor Maestro, and I'm sure it will be well after 9 p.m. before we start to eat. Having only had peanuts for lunch, I hope that I don't do something crass like eat the flower arrangements.
Feb. 24: Kathamndu, Nepal
Back to the Motor Brigade, with fuel so difficult to buy, taxis are too expensive. The bicycle rickshaws are doing a booming business. I had to go to Kalankistan (home of the Hasty Tasty Cafe) to look at sweaters, so Dendar gave me a ride on his bike. It's a contact sport here, literally rubbing elbows and knees with other riders.
There are huge queues all over, lining up for kerosene and petrol. Dendar said that it took him 3 hours in line this morning to fill the tank on his bike, and it's still unknown when the border will re-open for fuel to come in from India.
When I'm walking, a lot of the time is spent looking down, to avoid open ditches, dog poop, etc., but it's a revelation to look up. So much of the medievel city is still intact and still in use. At night when the current is cut, and people go back to candles, it really makes it seem like you're in a different time.
Feb. 21: Kathmandu, Nepal
Yesterday's notes are pretty depressing, it was a shocker to see the straits that Nepal is in, but the Nepal-ness is still here. Morning's alarm clock is crowing roosters, followed by the ravens calling, then the brief but intense Halleleujah Neighborhood Dog Chorus, and finally the sun breaking over the hills of the Kathmandu Valley.
I tried to get breakfast in my room this morning, I can sit at my window and plan out the day, but the Potala's restaurant had neither electricity nor cooking gas. The trip to Indian Airlines to get my ticket was futile as well, no electricity there until 2 pm. It's ok, I'll just have to find out what part of town has juice at what hour, and work around it, as everyone does here.
Later - I did see Amrita, the singing bowls this year are wonderful. Some of the thicker, mid-sized ones would almost start to sing when the stick was still an inch away. Some of them do sing, I mean really sing, loud, clear, no wavering. I tried playing the machine made ones, they are just dead in comparison. The hand-hammered ones zing with energy. Found some men's shirts as well that I hope people will like, the price is certainly right.
Also saw the Yeti brothers, that's another sad story, one bro has immigrated to Canada, family and all, they are sad about it, but just feel that there is no future here for the kids. I hear that a lot. It's the same thing that my great-grandparents did, left the Old Country and never looked back - but just as my family went from being German to being American, will the Tibetans no longer be Tibetans? As the Chinese try to assimulate Tibet, will it simply cease to exist?
I did have dinner at the Tibetan restaurant across the street, they were jammin', so I offered to share my table with a single woman who came in - she was really interesting, did fashion design for the big European fashion houses, works out of Delhi. She said that the borders out of Nepal are now all closed, including northern borders, as she has a friend who wanted to cross to Chinese Everest base camp, but can't get through.
Just the airport is now open, so flights are full. Reminds me of a few years ago, when instead, the airport was closed, and I thought I might have to walk out to get to India - I had asked why she worked out of Delhi, she said that for haute couture its all hand sewing, and best hand seamstresses are out of Delhi and Mombai and FYI, fashion is going to go back to a romantic look.
Feb. 20: Kathmandu, Nepal
Every year when I went back to Nepal, I used to have the fervent hope that things would be better - now I just hope that things don't get worse. This is a very complicated situation, complex background, changing problems, but the most immediate one is the strike in the Lowlands, or the Terai.
The Terai is the bridge between Nepal and India, and for the last 9 days, nothing has gotten through. Shortages are being felt in all sectors, from oxygen in hospitals, to no fuel for school busses, hence, no school, and huge price increases in food. With the 8 hour a day power cuts, it makes it difficult for business, and the uncertainty of getting a shipment through the Terai to a port in India is going to hamper my buying.
However, all of this is so minor compared to what the locals are going through. The carpet industry here is pretty much moribund, foreign investors are most uneasy about the Maoist situation, jobs are scarce, and inflation rampant. After the 26th , I am out of here, but my worry and concern for Nepal will stay with me. If there are no notes from me in the next couple days, its due to power outages. I'm at my favorite hotel, The Potala Guest House, at least that has a little heat when it has power. And heat is appreciated - I've gone from hot and steamy Bangkok to freezing my butt off with all of the clothes I own layered on. Saw Kathak, Chondon (Choedon) and Raj already just to say hi, tomorrow I need to get down to business, such as it is.
Feb. 19: Bangkok, Thailand
It's surprising that of all the times that I've been to Bangkok, that I've never made it to the Jim Thompson House until today. J.T. had moved several 200 plus year old teak houses from rural Thailand, re-assembled them in Bangkok, and built a carefully orchestrated jungle around the compound.
There's a strong over-lap between the J. T. house and my shippers' house, Baan Ming Ming, or Chez Doggies, outside of Chiang Mai - the lines are blurred between indoor and outdoor living, with an incredible profusion of plants everywhere. I've even broken out of my reverse-snobbery street-grunt mode of eating, to have grapefruit/fried garlic/coconut salad along side the Koi pond at the J.T. house, instead of along side the usual spewing deisel fumes and hot asphalt.
Other than picking up silk lotus blossoms (I saw them yesterday and went gaga over the gorgeous colors), and making an airline res., I have nothing on my agenda today, so might go Online and order canna bulbs and yet more Asiatic Lillies, while inspired by the gardens here. Plus if I get the order in before March, there is a good discount, I can always find a justification for plant material. This may well be an early night, as my flight to Kathmandu leaves just after 10 am, so I need to leave here well before 7.
Feb. 18: Bangkok, Thailand
L.P. describes the Christian Guesthouse, where I'm staying, as "Puritanical austerity". I describe it as an oasis of calm in the midst of chaos. Between visits, I remember all of the things that I like about Bangkok, and forget the things that I don't like. I'm definitely feeling the effects now of the things that I don't like - the heat and humidity, and the smog. At the end of the day in a city, almost any city, if it's good sized, I end up with a raging headache from breathing the fumes at street level. I won't call this a raging headache, just a dull thump, but I guess it was worth it.
Breakfast is included in the price of the room here at the CG, (which, by the way, smells like a bar of soap, and is just as clean). I've been feeling a little peckish the last few days, like I haven't been eating enough, so at the breakfast table this morning, there was a bowl of honest to goodness peanut butter, first I've seen since I left home, with a spoon in it, that just sort of begged "have at it", so I did. Needless to say, I didn't feel hungry again until well after 4 pm, but what a shame - I had ended up in the markets at China Town, and Little India, both around lunch time, and it was row after row of glorious street grunt food, and me too full to try it.
I took the boat to get to China Town, and ended up first at the flower market, not as fragrant as one would expect because of the smell coming up from the canal, but what an amazing sight. This is where the flowers are bought for the Wats, or Buddhist temples, and the bouquets of lotus blossom buds had buds the size of large grapefruit, wrapped in lotus leaves. I also ended up going through the veg. and fruit market, saw stuff that I don't have a clue what I was looking at. I did buy some rambutans, tho, this was the fruit that the macaque monkeys up in Ubud liked better than bananas, so I want to see why. I think that they're similar to liches.
What I had gone to the market for, by Little India, was Thai textiles, but it was a disappointing showing, so I didn't buy anything. Well, disappointing as far as Thai textiles go, but the Indian textiles were amazing - shiny fabric, fake fur, glitter, sequins, one dress looked like the swan dress that Bjork wore, minus the head. I might still go out tonight to go to the Pat Pong night market, but I have doubts if I'll find anything there, either - the Hill Tribe textiles are best found up north in Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai.
Tomorrow might be just a pilgrimage to Jim Thompson's house (his story is worth googling), and then an early night in, as I've got an early flight to catch on Wed. morning.
Feb. 16: Kuta, Bali
Finished up business this morning, and will organize my papers and put them away this afternoon, and I might even have time tomorrow morning to go to the beach, or use the hotel swimming pool. Looking at the next several legs of the trip, I don't see any where that a swim suit figures into the scheme of things, so I want to at least justify bringing it, by actually using it more than once.
I arrived back to Kuta yesterday, mid-afternoon, it really made me appreciate Gusti all the more. Putu, the kid who drove, was pretty entertaining, if you wanted to listen to non-stop stream of consciousness, 90% of the time I didn't have a clue what he was talking about, but it was still entertaining. The ride also made me put the previous motorcycle accident into perspective, in the one and half hours it takes to get to Kuta from Ubud, we saw 3 different car/motorbike accidents happen, fortunately, not a single one resulted in injury. These are not high speed highways, between Denpasar/Kuta to Ubud, its actually less than 20 miles, tho the two areas are so different it seems like the other side of the planet.
Ubud has a large organic gardening movement. as well as yoga, fair trade projects, etc. Kuta had beach and surfing and lots of beer gardens and nightclubs. I also saw Ground Zero today, where the over 200 people died in the first Bali bomb blast. Victor said that Bali has yet to recover from that, plus the Aussies are pissed at the Balinese police, as there is a fair number of Aussies in prison here for drug use.
I used to try and line up my Thailand trip as the last trip of the season, sort of the reward for slogging through the harder travel, and was thinking that its a shame that Bali was the first leg of the east, rather than the last. However, I can use images from Ubud for when I want to remove myself from less than pleasant traveling cicumstances, such as overnight train trips through India sharing a sleeper compartment with 3 men with flatulence, snoring, and stinky feet. (the joke is, am I referring to them, or to me?)
Hopefully after a dip in the ocean (its bath tub warm) tomorrow morning, I'm off to the Big Bad B (Bangkok) staying in the most sedate digs possible, the Bangkok Christian Guest House. But its safe, very well located, they actually answer my emails for reservations, not too expensive and unbelievably clean. The rooms are totally white, shiny white floor, spotless white walls, totally sanitized white bathroom, I feel too guilty to burn incense in the room, and I leave my shoes at the door.
Feb. 11: Ubud Bali
Ooff, back to reality this afternoon, I have to go back to Kuta to finish business - this has been Fantasy Island for me, these last 5 days in Ubud. I thought about some of the places that I've had meals, and they've included overlooking beautiful green rice paddies, a lotus bed in bloom, swimming pools, and lush green gardens, and yesterday's lunch setting was the best.
I stayed in town, as Gusti and I had worked hard the previous day, and I took a walk out to the west of town, where I hadn't been before, all of the villages that we went to were south, east, and north of town. Wow, what a change - deep, dramatic gorges falling down to a rushing stream, with the walls of the chasm lined in ferns, bouganvillea, palm trees, variegated split leave rhododendron?? (chartreuse and yellow, no less), vines, and who knows what else - breathtaking. This was also the most expensive meal that I've had in Bali ($7.50, with the tip) but worth absolutely every penny just for the view, with the table almost hanging into the gorge. As vegetarian offerings were scant, I had gado gado, but this was gado gado with a twist, instead of the usual hardboiled egg, this was a Balinese style Chinese 100 year old egg, the sort of dried up and spicy/fermented ones, but delicious, and home made sambal, or chile sauce, served in a banana leaf boat, etc. When I worked at the ski areas, I used to imagine what it would be like to be on the receiving end of service, rather than the service end of service, and I do have to say that I enjoy it.
I also said goodbye to Itty Bitty, he was the Itty Bitty Lizard who lived behind my mirror, and he was also the one who, singlehandedly, took care of the ant problem after I had left fruit out in the room. The Big Guy on the ceiling went for bigger game, but Itty Bitty was quite content with tiny ants, in large quantities.
I've gotten a few emails from people asking what kind of things that I'm finding in Bali. Lots, let's see if I can remember all. As a self-proclaimed Textile Nerd, of course what comes to mind first are the back-strapped loomed, veg. dye Ikat weavings from Sumba. Lots of primitives, statuary, carvings from Timor and Papau, New Guinea. Timor is interesting, it seems that it was isolated enough that it escaped the waves of Buddhism, Hinduism, Islam, that washed over most of south east Asia. At some point West Timor, at least, became largely Christian, but kept a lot of their animistic beliefs as well, so the art reflects a lot of the old culture.
I had wondered about Victor's name ( he's from Timor), if he had changed it to make it more easily remembered by westerners. As it turns out, I had met his niece here in Ubud, as well as another older niece, and a brother - I think every single Timor trader in Bali is from the same family. Anyway, Regina, the niece, said that Timor is full of Victors, its a common name.
Also bought wood shields and bark paintings from Papau, furniture, both teak and mahogony, one bed was made by an old Dutch man, he was a hanger-on from Colonial times, its mahagony, with carving, and a beautiful wax finish, it really shows off the wood, most of the other furniture is made from old recyled teak, so I don't have to worry about it cracking. What else?, Lambok baskets, mirrors, fine wood carving, masks, percussion instruments (it was hard doing business with the drummers, they had a hard time keeping their hands off of the drums and not playing them, but that's as it should be, made by real drummers), carved stone, garden things, summer costume jewelry.
Yesterday I found beaded baskets that I've never seen before, other than in Ubud. I asked the girl who had them, what the "business price" would be if I bought many, she gave me a figure that was about a third of what I thought it would be. I can't play poker, I don't have a poker face, and she must have seen that on my face, I was in shock, so she said - last price, - I guess she thought I was in shock at it being high, and was going to start to bargain. I just said OK, and started selecting baskets.
Looking at them closely, I started feeling guilty, these were really well made, and each one was more beautiful than the last, and wondered if I should offer her MORE than she had wanted. She solved that dilemna for me, by showering me with free water, and incense, so I know she was very happy with the price, as was I, that's the way trade should be, where everyone is happy at the end of the day.
I've got a different driver to take me back to Kuta, but he was recommended by Gusti,(Mr. Rogers Balinese double) so he should be ok, I've got to drop stuff off at the shippers, and look at chairs on the way back. Gusti had gotten a phone call from a buyer who he had schlepped around before, she had to get silver, and Gusti knows the suppliers, not every driver has the skill, knowledge, and dedication that Gusti does, so I was glad to have met him, and glad that his kindness and hardwork are rewarded with a full schedule. (He also is learning Spanish , so we spent some time going over key phrases to help him with his Spanish speaking wholesale buyers). I guess instead of being sad to leave Ubud, I should be grateful that I even got to see it, and on the bright side, Kuta hotel has HBO, and Memoires of a Geisha is playing this week, which I always wanted to see.
Feb. 11: Ubud Bali
Today I found the perfect antidote to my previous taxi driver from Hell. The anitidotes's name is Gusti, and he is a perfect Balinese Mr. Rogers. He speaks quietly, drives very calmly and nicely, and is just a nice, calm, sweet man. Plus, he also is a wood carver, and has a ton of contacts and knowledge. He doesn't even try to sell me his work, he says that it's a little too high for business price, as his uncle sets the price.
We went back to Batubulan today, and I got my stone, pretty much everything that I wanted, except for the 6 ton bathtub carved out of one single piece of stone. But I was very happy with what I found, and did even find some of the little stone basins, I would love to dump a water lily in each one this summer, but I know it would take all of one night for the raccoons to have a pool party and shred everything.
Mr. Gusti and I have an early start tomorrow morning, so guess I'll wrap it up, plus I got a foot massage tonight, finally, and that's enough in and of itself to make me go to sleep. I feel guilty saying this, while the Midwest is in the midst of an old fashioned snowy, cold winter, but it really is paradise here - sorry - at least know that I am grateful.
Feb. 10: Ubud, Bali
I see now that today is the 10th, not the 11th, so haven't made the reflexology foot massage a high priority. I also see that the 6th and 8th of Feb. were Auspicious Days for castrating animals, wonder if the Dog Pack owners believe in the Balinese calendar.
Ok, so I've got to finish up the Motorscooter Saga, its been bothering me, and after I tell the whole story maybe I'll just let it go. Yes, the driver was wrong, he wasn't paying attention. Yes, I was pissed at him, but gave him the benefit of the doubt and hoped he was most contrite, and I didn't say anything. The girls drove their scooter home, and he followed to their family compound. Their dad came out and looked at the scooter, and decided that the damage came to about 250,000 rupiah, or about $27. I am trying to decide where in the scheme of things I can make things better, or worse, or just butt out.
When in doubt of a moral or ethical question, I ask myself, what would my mom have done? I always put her on my short list of my most admired people, up there with Mother Theresa, The Mahatma Ghandi, and H.H. The Dalai Lama. When we were in Mexico City, years ago, we had gotten out of the Volkswagen taxi, and just as we got out, a traffic cop pulled up, and asked what we had paid in taxi fees. I told him, and we'd been overcharged, and the taxi driver had to pay a fine. My mom only spoke about 20 words in Spanish, but she could tell by the look on his face that something was wrong. When I told her, she felt so bad, she wanted to pay his fine for him.
Same thing with Steve B., who was renting the house next door, he got drunk, drove drunk, and smashed up both his car and himself. Rather than kick him when he was down, and evict him for not being able to pay rent, she waived the rent until he was (literally) back on his feet. I know that she was pissed at him for the drunk driving (she'd get that tight lipped look when she talked about it), but she still had compassion for him.
So thinking about all of this, when we arrived to Ubud, I told the driver (through tight lips) that I knew that it was a lot of money, which on a driver's salary, it is, so I paid half of the 250,000 rupiah, and didn't make any judgemental remarks, and tried to let it go. He did thank me, then when he was leaving, he said that the two girls weren't wearing helmets, and he should report them to the police. Aaarrrggghh. Just let it go, let it go.
I had also justified shelling out the money to him in that I would just eat 2 meals on the cheap to make up the money. Before you think that I'm being all noble, I have to tell you that so far my best meal in Bali cost me 55 cents. I went to the little warung, or restaurant, by Victor's house, it doesn't get tourist traffic, and I had the most kick ass lunch, it was rice and chile sauce and steamed veggies and greens with peanut sauce, plus a bit of egg omelet, and he even threw in some chile tempeh for free, as he thought I'd like it. The warung meals are also the eco way to go - all locally grown ingrediants, wrapped up in paper as your dish, and no plastic silverware, you eat it with your fingers. The trick is to keep the rice on the bottom, or eat fast, so the juices don't dissolve the paper before you're done. How cool is that?
I'm also saving money by getting the cheapest room at the hotel, the rates go from $15 to $80 a night, but the beautiful grounds are the same, to be enjoyed by all, no matter the price of your room. Plus, I really like my room, top floor so no mosquitos, a ceiling fan is better than aircon anyway, and I don't need an in -room frig or TV. I do have a big lizzard who lives on the ceiling, so he does double duty as both entertainment, and bug control. The hotel grounds are so lush and gorgeous, and it's got a big honking lotus pond, with the lotus in bloom. Night life is great, but not as one would usually think - its the bats, and singing frogs, and lizards, and we're just up the road from the Monkey Forest, I had a monkey on my back this afternoon. I took bananas for the little monkeys, and while I had my attention on them, another little bugger climbed up my back and sat on my shoulders.
I did the tourist thing yesterday when I got into town, which included a self-guided tour of the still inhabited Ubud Palace, I felt sort of like a voyeur, I think I saw the Dowager Queen mum drinking tea. Then I went back to the palace at night, as they had traditional Balinese dancing and music. The dancing was sort of disturbing to watch, I don't think those feet and hand motions are possible for a human body. If you've ever seen the cult movie, Mars Attacks!, think the martian girl, and how she moved, and you'll catch my drift.
Tomorrow I'm going back to Batuluban to go look at stone, I admit it quite frankly, I have a stone fetish. My favorite garden piece is what my brother calls ancient coral, he dragged it out of the fields on the farm, its the center stone of my new patio garden. I'm limited to just buying smaller pieces, as I don't want to need crates (added extra expense, has to be specialy treated, certified wood, etc.) plus I don't own a forklift. But the Balinese stone is so cool, and its extremely porous and rich, so it gets patina, or grows lichen and moss in a very short time.
Feb. 9: Ubud, Bali
It's been an interesting last few days. Yesterday morning in the early hours, I thought I was dreaming that I was sleeping on top of the washing machine, and that it was shaking and rumbling from the load being unbalanced, and then I woke up enough to realize that it was an earthquake. When I travel I always sleep with my shoes and purse on the floor beside the bed, out of habit, as the electricity often times goes out, and I know where to find things by Braile, so I was ready to head for the door if need be, then the shaking subsided. I thought I was really scared (hey, I grew up in the Mid west, not California) but I went right back to sleep, and then in the morning I had to ask if there really had been an earthquake, or if I just dreamed it.
Then today my driver hit a motorcycle with two girls on it, while going up to Ubud. I didn't want to use Bemo service, as there were about 3 villages that I wanted to stop at, but even after 15 minutes with this guy, I'm thinking its a bad match, I want to stop, he's passing everybody on the road. Sure enough, he ran into the back of a stopped scooter, The girls were ok, the scooter had a bent fender. hope he slows down, I think he was pretty upset about it, I know I was. oops, the internet cafe is closing, will write more tomorrow, its Sunday, so it will be a quiet day, plus the 11th, according to the Balinese calendar, is supposed to be an Auspicious Day for self-purification - sounds like good advice.
Feb. 7: Kuta, Bali
Happy Losar to all my dear Tibetan friends, may you have a mosty happy and prosperous new year, filled with joy, peace, and good health. Because of this being New Year's Day for Thailand as well, it was a little tricky to change my airline ticket, but the dye has been cast, and the deed is done - I think - won't know until I get email confirmation.
But there's been a major change of plans - my "no container from Bali" had gone from a 20 footer to a 40 footer, and I've taken 9 days off of Thailand and added it to Bali-time. So I will have time to get up to Ubud, though this has been fascinating to dig deep around Denpasar - I've found so much good stuff.
Victor has been a big help, for translating, and schlepping me around, and finding things, but he got a day off today, his nephew is getting married today, and it happens at his family's compound, which they all share. I was over there yesterday, his wife, and all of the aunties were slicing, chopping, mashing, it looked like its going to be quite a feast. I was invited, but they understood that I didn't have time, epecially as of yesterday I still didn't know if I could change my ticket.
Most of what I bought today was musical, all sizes of drums, windchimes, clackers, didgeridos that I could actually play after about 2 minutes of practice, Thunder Drums, bedue drums. The coolest thing, tho, I don't even know what its called. It's sort of like an open ended drum, but there's a stick coming out of it, and you slowly pull your fingers along it, and it makes noises like laughing, sighing, passing gas, you name it. It's totally obnoxious, and impossible to put down.
Feb. 5: Kuta, Bali
Crossing the street in Asia always feels to me like a death-defying propostion. Driving can only be described as free-style, and pedestian rights are pretty much non-existant. Traffic consists of the endless wave of bicycles, motorcycles, and scooters, and I'm riding the wave. If you can't beat 'em, join 'em.
I've switched over to high gear for getting this container filled, and anytime I am offered the chance to be hauled some where by motor bike, I take up the offer. Madai the drum lady, the post office lady, Victor, furniture office boy, you name it, I've been on the back of their scooter. With a serious nod to my own mortality, I gladly put on the helmet if one is offered, and off we go. (On a side note, last year in Hanoi, I was trying to cross the street with motorcycles literally 15 across, and no end in sight. I don't know how long I was waiting for, though I had wanted to cross the road to get to the temple in the lake and watch the sunset, and I was laughing to myself, thinking I might catch it at sunrise. Then I heard this big booming voice in my ear, and a schnell!! and a grab on my elbow, and I was propelled into traffic by a very large German man, who had his Frau on his other arm. We did get across in one piece, I gave him a weak Danke, I was laughing so hard.)
On the subject of motorscooters, I saw the most bizarre and cool thing on Sunday, it was about a dozen little Italian scooters, but chopped and raked and lowered, some with sidecars, tricked out as Mad Max meets Hello Kitty, even the Balinese kids driving and riding in them had Mad Max gear on, but the scooters also featured a lot of grunged up stuffed animals too.
Being realistic about my looming deadline, there is no more going to the beach for Sunrise Yoga, but just as well. My hotel is on a "gang", or back alleyway, and its a larger gang, but early in the morning there is really no activity. I was walking along, and then out of nowhere I felt 2 cold noses on my leg, and heard grrrr. I was surrounded by a pack of about 5 dogs, and the hair on their backs was up. I froze, and really wasn't sure what to do, tho I was hoping that a motorcycle or something would come along and run them over. Fortunately for me, and most unfortunate for whatever dog they smelled, just a quickly they were gone, and then I heard the bark bark bark and yike yike yike.
I was thinking most uncharitable thoughts about spay and neuter and would gladly have done the job myself, if given the chance, when I heard more yip yip yip, but this was coming from down a hole. Just before the beach, there was a large deep hole, about 5 feet feep (the sign said Be Careful! Most sorry for Uncomfortable!) with a little dog in the bottom, with the sweetest little face. I didn't want to climb in, I didn't know how he'd react, so I'm trying to do Sun Salutations while looking around for a ladder or something, wondering who to call, at the very least I needed to take him food and water in case he'd been down there for awhile.
It wasn't a very good yoga session, worrying about Fox Face, but as I'm headed up the beach again, there he is, out of the hole, but sitting close to it. I wonder if he falls in on a regular basis.
We had a big storm last night, they really roll in quickly, and just as I was sitting down at the Internet Cafe, there was a BOOM ball of fire outside the window, and then all dark. I have no idea what time electricity was restored, but at least I had a candle in the room, and after the rain stopped, I watched the huge bats swirling around outside - cool -
I still have a lot to do, long and busy days, I've got a motorcycle date with Victor at 9 am tomorrow morning to go look at totems. I don't have time to watch the sun set over the ocean, but I caught the most spectacular sunset lighting up the gilt on the temple, it looked like it was lit from within. It's nose to the grindstone now, and business as usual, but believe me, the usual here is most unusual.
Feb. 3 :Kuta, Bali
I can drive myself crazy by trying to control what's beyond my control, or I can adjust to it and go to plan B. The good news is that it looks like I'll be sending a container from Bali, the bad news is that instead of chilling out up in groovy Ubud, I'll be sweating it out in and around Kuta. To salvage some of the idea of idylic Bali, I'm at least going to try and do my own sunrise yoga on the beach before starting the work day.
So today was a change of plans, and a change of hotel rooms. I stayed at the same hotel, but asked for an upper room that's hopefully high enough that the mosquitos don't come in. Asian mosquito bites are different, they don't make big bumps and they don't really itch, but they leave red dots that take days to go away - I look like I'm contageous with something. Plus, not to be paranoid, but while I did get a vaccination for Hep. A or B, I forget, I didn't have time to get a vaccination for , again, I forget, yellow fever? or something that mosquitos transmit. Plus the new hotel room, 4th floor, smells alot better. It was supposed to cost more too, but I think they took pity on me because of all the bites that I've got, and charged me the same price as the dungeon room.
So why the change of heart on a container? I found a shipper that I have confidence in, and I think I have enough contacts now to fill it. For all you drummers out there, I'll be sending back djembe style drums at great prices, different sizes, good sounds, and cool decoration. Another one of my favorite finds was 5 gamelons, or the Balinese zylaphones, again, at a great price and really, really good sound. These will be fun to play.
The hotel had a small non-professionally done handout that was left by a Mr. Suta. I will quote part of it: "Big Event Cremation Ceremony! Improve your experience and memory before leaving Bali. The Spectacular Combination Tour. Kill two birds with one stone. Cremation Ceremony and Romantic Dinner. $25."
Does anyone else find this ironic, drole, or bizarre, or is it just me?
Feb. 2: Kuta Bali
It's hard to believe that I left the house at 2:30 p.m. on Jan 29, and I didn't check into the hotel in Bali until 2:30 p.m. 4 days later. On the other hand, 100 years ago, it would have been about 4 months later until the Bali check in, and yes, I know I crossed the International Date Line at some point, and lost a day that way, or something like that. I was lucky to even get out of O'Hare, we left late, with high winds and snow, so I missed my flight out of San Francisco, tho it was close. I felt bad for someone else who missed the flight, he had a broken back and was trying to get home for Chinese New Year.
San Francisco airport really closes down after midnight, so it didn't look too inviting for hanging out for the next 24 hours when the next flight left, but the big clincher was that none of the seats in the waiting area were benches, they all had arms , so full length sleep would have been impossible. United did get me a slip for a discounted hotel room, it was the Best Western El Rancho on the Camino Real, and a big step up from what I usually stay in. I still had about 12 hours to kill in between hotel check out, and boarding, and could have gone to Fisherman's Warf or something, but I really wanted to get lots of walking in before lots of sitting, so that's exactly what I did, to the point of getting shin splints. But the walking was great - I saw primulas, calendulas, calla lillies, early iris, pansies, all of your cold weather flowers that are supposed to do well in the midwest, but usually get blasted out by too hot or too cold.
The long leg of the trip was with China Airlines, which I've never flown before, so rather than have any expectations, either good or bad, I just showed up, with no expectations whatsoever, and was very pleasantly surprised. This was a jam-packed flight, I was told lots of travelers for the Chinese New Year, so steerage was more crowded than usual, but the bathrooms remained SPOTLESS for all 14 hours of the trip. I don't know if I give thanks to the flight crew, or my fellow travelers, or both.
The plane also had lots of gadgets, like individual screens on the backs of seats, hand held remote controls, and a vanity mirror too, next to the TV screen.
The flight was also late taking off, so they had to hold the Taipei/Denpasar flight, so my bag didn't make the connection, actually I haven't seen it since check in in Chicago, and my little 3 oz. or less carryon things are about used up, so hope the bag shows up tomorrow. I did have a carry on with a few extra clothes, and Bali is a great place to shop if you need things. Got a great looking little black sleeveless dress today, for a measley $8, so that flushes out my temporary wardrobe by about 50%.
Other than travel, what can I say, except I'm here in Bali? It's green and lush and hot and sunny and the ocean is just a block away. My hotel room stinks, literally, its growing mold or something, but I don't want to change, as I really don't want to make getting my suitcase any more dificult than it already is (as of this afternoon, they said that it was in Jakarta, but couldn't get out because of weather) but I hope to get out of Kuta in a day or two anyway, and head inland to Ubud. Bali might be a small island, but I've pretty much resigned myself that there's too much to see the first time to put together a full container. I did find great ikat, though, and the East Timor baskets that I was looking for, so will send a box or two home via the post office sea freight.
Other than my room being dark and smelly, the hotel is ok, it has beautiful grounds, and I guess I've got singing lizards or frogs outside my door at night, its a real love chorus. My guess is that its lizards, as that's what I saw when I was dong early morning yoga by the pool. Plus I'd forgotten to turn off the light over my door, so the lizards like to hang out by the light for easy bug hunting.
Usually I like to learn at least "hello" amd "thank you" in the local language, but the first thing that I learned to say in Balinese is gado gado - its a yummy veg/peanut sauce /egg dish that seems to be on about any cook's repetoire of dishes, even the little holes in the wall that don't offer printed menus.
I'm worn out and it's only 9 pm, don't know if it's the heat, or if I'm still battling jet lag, but tomorrow is Sunday, and not a lot goes on, so will look forward to a foot massage and maybe even a dip in the ocean. Hey, I work hard, but sometimes you've just gotta go with the flow.
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